Spanish Mellerio Shell Tiara

Today marks the 95th anniversary of the death of Infanta Isabel ‘La Chata’, who passed away on this day in 1931! The eldest daughter of Queen Isabel II, sister of King Alfonso XII and aunt of King Alfonso XIII, the Infanta was popular member of the Spanish Royal Family and today we are revisiting her iconic Spanish Mellerio Shell Tiara!

Made by Maison Mellerio to be presented at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867, this Diamond Shell Tiara set with dangling Pearls was acquired the following year by Queen Isabella II for the price of 180,000 reales for the trousseau of her eldest daughter, Infanta Isabel.

The (rocaille) design of the piece simulates a wave or a seashell, modeled in diamonds from which a shower of pearls and diamonds falls: seven pear-shaped pearls and eighteen briolette-cut diamonds, which shake at the smallest movement. There is also a large briolette diamond that hangs from the base of the piece (that can be removed when required).

Queen Isabella II acquired the Mellerio Shell Tiara for her eldest daughter, Infanta Isabel, known more popularly as ‘La Chata’, on the occasion of her marriage to Prince Gaetan of the Bourbon Two Sicilies, Count of Girgenti in 1868. Widowed young, the Infanta was one of the leading members of the Spanish Court over several decades and frequently wore the Mellerio Shell Tiara on countless occasions.

After the Infanta’s death in 1931 just weeks after the fall of the Spanish Monarchy when the piece was reportedly smuggled out of Spain stitched inside a hat, the Mellerio Shell Tiara was among the jewels inherited by her nephew, King Alfonso XIII, and despite his estrangement from Queen Victoria Eugenie, the Shell Tiara was worn for a series of portraits taken in the 1930s, for some gala occasions and on a visit to the Vatican in 1950.

A few years later, Queen Victoria Eugenie loaned the Mellerio Shell Tiara to her daughter-in-law, the Countess of Barcelona, for one of the Wedding Balls of Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip of Greece at Buckingham Palace in 1947.

In 1962, the Mellerio Shell Tiara was given as a wedding gift to Princess Sofia of Greece on the occasion of her wedding to Prince Juan Carlos, and worn for the first time for one of the two Wedding Balls held at the Royal Palace of Athens.

Along with her Prussian Diamond Tiara, the Mellerio Shell Tiara was one of Princess Sofia’s two tiaras for the following two decades and was notably worn for the Greek Monarchy Centenary Gala in 1963, the Wedding Ball of King Constantine of Greece and Princess Anne Marie of Denmark in 1964, and the Wedding Ball of Princess Beatrix of The Netherlands in 1966.

In the early years of King Juan Carlos’ reign, when she hadn’t gained access to the Joyas de Pasar, nor converted her Floral Tiara, the Mellerio Shell Tiara was worn by Queen Sofia for several State Visits, including the Spanish State Visit to Denmark and State Visit to Japan in 1980, the State Visit to Norway in 1982, the Nepalese State Banquet in 1983, the Norwegian State Visit to Spain in 1984, Crown Prince Akihito and Crown Princess Michiko’s visit to Spain in 1985, the Spanish State Visit to Britain in 1986, and the State Visit to Thailand in 1987.

Unlike the more frequent loans of her Prussian Diamond Tiara or the Floral Tiara, Queen Sofia rarely loaned the Mellerio Shell Tiara to both of her daughters, with Infanta Elena wearing the Tiara for a family portrait in the 1980s and and and Infanta Cristina wearing the piece for a State Banquet in honour of the King of Morocco.

Despite acquiring several more Tiaras over the next few years, Queen Sofia continued to frequently wear the Mellerio Shell Tiara over the next several decades with appearances including King Harland and Queen Sonja’s Silver Anniversary in 1993, the Belgian State Visit to Spain in 1994, King Carl Gustaf’s 50th Birthday in 1996, and the Jordanian State Banquet at the Royal Palace of Madrid in 1999.

Infanta Margarita, Queen Sofia’s sister-in-law, was also once loaned the Mellerio Shell Tiara, for a banquet held during a State Visit from the President of Portugal.

Queen Letizia wore the Mellerio Shell Tiara only once, as Princess of Asturias, for a Banquet held in honour of the President of the Philippines in 2007.

Queen Sofia continued to wear the Mellerio Shell Tiara for State Banquets in the 2000s, with the Tiara making a last notable appearance at the Wedding of Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden in 2010. The Tiara remains her personal property.

As one of the most iconic Mellerio pieces, the Shell Tiara has been displayed in exhibitions on several occasions over the years but has not been publicly worn in over a decade. As one of the oldest heirloom jewels in the Spanish Royal Family worn by five generations, let’s hope the Tiara may soon reappear atop the head of the sixth generation.

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