Dame Nellie Melba’s Cartier Sautoir on Auction

Today marks the 165th Anniversary of the Birth of the legendary Dame Nellie Melba, who was born on this day in 1861! The Opera Singer possessed a spectacular jewellery collection and a magnificent Cartier Pearl and Diamond Sautoir is going on Auction at Bonhams in London next month!

Dame Nellie Melba’s Cartier Belle Époque seed pearl and diamond sautoir, circa 1910, is designed with seed pearl linking, accented at intervals by scroll and floral spacers millegrain-set with old brilliant, old single and rose-cut diamonds, suspending a circular pendant, pierced with a radiating floral motif, millegrain-set with similarly-cut diamonds, signed Cartier Paris.

Dame Nellie Melba was one of the most renowned sopranos of the late Victorian era and early twentieth century. Born in Melbourne, Australia, where she began her vocal studies, after an unsuccessful marriage, she moved to Europe to pursue a professional singing career. In 1886, she studied in Paris and soon achieved significant success there as well as in Brussels. By 1888, she had established herself in London as the leading lyric soprano at the Royal Opera House. She continued to build her reputation across Europe before making her debut at the Metropolitan Opera in New York in 1893. Throughout the early twentieth century, Melba frequently returned to Australia, where she taught at the Melbourne Conservatorium of Music, helping the next generation of opera singers. Aside from her musical achievements, Dame Nellie Melba was celebrated for her refined style. She wore luxurious gowns and adorned herself with exquisite diamonds, curating a remarkable jewellery collection, much of it acquired from Cartier. She became one of the house’s most distinguished clients, and the sautoir now coming to auction stands as a perfect example of her exceptional taste and elegance.

In the last few years, several of Dame Nellie Melba’s jewels have appeared at auction, including her Cartier Devant-de-Corsage in 2023, while the Vestey Tiara is now worn by the Duchess of Brabant.

While we were in London last month, we were graciously invited by Bonhams to preview some of the spectacular Noble Jewels going on auction next month, which included Dame Nellie Melba’s Cartier Sautoir

The Cartier Sautoir is being offered with an estimate of £60,000-80,000. Jean Ghika, Bonhams Global Head of Jewellery commented:

Dame Nellie Melba’s Cartier sautoir reflects the elegance of the Belle Époque era – a period defined by the revolutionary use of platinum, of which Cartier were an early pioneer. The design of this circa 1910 jewel exemplifies Cartier’s mastery of this precious metal and their innovative designs during an era that was also defined by the more traditional garland style. Its significance is further elevated by its distinguished provenance. Offered at auction for the first time since Dame Nellie’s ownership of the jewel, this sautoir by Cartier Paris is a highly desirable survivor of their output during this era and a window into the life and personality of an Australian cultural icon.”