Spectacular Jewels in the possession of Duke Alexander Eugen and Duchess Sophie of Württemberg, the children of Princess Nadezhda of Bulgaria and Duke Albrecht Eugen of Württemberg, which originate from the Württemberg, Habsburg, Bulgarian, Orléans, Bourbon-Parma, Bourbon-Two Sicilies, and Saxe-Coburg-Gotha Royal Families are among the spectacular Jewels going on Auction at the Sotheby’s Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection Sale in Geneva tomorrow!

Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection

Köchert Pearl and Diamond Tiara

Estimate: 270,000 – 450,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany

A Köchert Pearl and Diamond Tiara, of openwork, garland design, set with drop- to slightly baroque drop-shaped natural pearls, brooch and comb fittings for the central element, two hairpin fittings, five central elements detachable, thirteen pearl pendants detachable. Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968) described this natural pearl and diamond tiara as having belonged to her mother Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany (1844-1899).

The great representative parures produced for the court, though highly impressive, were first and foremost dignified, classical creations meant to be worn for decades and withstand ever changing fashions. To achieve this timeless quality, large pieces were usually transformable in a multitude of clever ways. Tiaras could be worn as necklaces, necklaces could come apart as bracelets, pendants could be removed or added at will and individual elements could be unscrewed for alternative wear as brooches and hairpins.

All through the nineteenth century, jewellery followed wider artistic currents. In the romantic era of the 1830 and 1840s, Viennese jewellery was renowned across Europe for its mastery of light, naturalistic sprays of floral and foliate design. Over the following decades Köchert and other Viennese jewellers would often return to this theme with great success. During the mid-19^th century, high jewellery explored historicizing themes following medieval and renaissance examples. At the Vienna World Fair of 1873, Köchert for instance presented a tiara of Byzantine style and a Swan parure influenced by the pseudo-medieval themes Richard Wagner’s operas.

However, it would be the neo-rococo style that would have the most lasting influence. The flowing ribbons and bows, openwork rinceaux and charming asymmetrical compositions of 18^th century decorative arts translated particularly well into jewellery. Köchert created countless variations on this theme often combined with floral elements. By the early 1900s, the scrolling lines of art nouveau could be discerned in high jewellery, but always interpreted in a discreet way blending in seamlessly with more traditional decorative elements. Under the influence of Parisian jewellers, Viennese jewels of the 1910s took on light, delicate, Louis XVI-inspired designs in platinum settings, ever so slightly foreshadowing the geometric styles that would become predominant after World War I.

Today, the firm of A.E. Köchert is perhaps the only widely remembered Viennese jeweller. Köchert’s wonderfully preserved archive gives a rare glimpse into 19^th century Viennese jewellery production. Von Mack was court jeweller for some 40 years in the Biedermeier era. When he passed away, Köchert and Biedermann were jointly appointed court jeweller by a young Emperor Franz Joseph. In the mid-19^th century, Biedermann was Köchert’s main competitor who also received important Imperial commissions. V. Mayer, Schwarz & Söhne was a highly regarded company that also held the title of court supplier. This jeweller mainly specialized in orders and insignia of which the court was always ordering large quantities. The high nobility also frequented the fashionable jewellers Moritz Hübner and Wilhelm Haarstrick in the late 19^th and early 20^th century.

The end of the Habsburg monarchy deprived these jewellers of their raison d’être. Without court life, the magnificent parures and bejewelled decorations of yesteryear had become obsolete. With the exception of Köchert, almost none of the main fin de siècle Viennese jewellery houses survive today. This unique Imperial and Royal collection having remained virtually undivided and unaltered since the early twentieth century, provides a unique chance to study Viennese jewellery of the belle époque and rediscover the talent of these forgotten masters.

Köchert Ruby and Diamond Tiara

Estimate: 180,000 – 350,000 CHF

From the collection of Duchess Isabella of Württemberg, Princess of Saxony

A Köchert Ruby and Diamond Tiara, from the collection of Duchess Isabella of Württemberg, Princess of Saxony, circa 1896, of bow and ribbon design, set with oval and cushion-shaped rubies, set throughout with cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, three bow-shaped motifs and four arches detachable,, additional fittings for wear as a circlet. The Tiara was last worn by Duke Albrecht Eugen’s duaghter, Duchess Sophie of Württemberg, for a Ball in 1997.

This tiara was part of the estate of Isabella, Duchess of Württemberg (1871-1904). In 1894, she married Prince Johann George of Saxony (1869-1938). Upon her untimely death in 1904, her ruby and diamond tiara by Köchert was bequeathed to her nephew Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954).

Köchert Ruby and Diamond Necklace/Tiara

Estimate: 110,000 – 160,000 CHF

From the Collection of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg

A Köchert Ruby and Diamond Necklace/Tiara, circa 1893, designed as a naturalistic spray of wild roses, the stamen and rose-buds set with cushion-shaped and oval rubies, the leaves pavé-set with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, fowerheads and pendants detachable, screwdriver, fitting for wear as a tiara. The Necklace was Emperor Franz Joseph I’s wedding gift for his niece, Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg, which was left to her son, Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg, in 1913.

This transformable necklace corresponds to the wedding gift which Emperor Franz Joseph purchased at Köchert for his niece Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria when she married Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg in 1893. The necklace was intended to form a suite with the ruby and diamond brooch by Köchert (lot 1071).

When Archduchess Margarete Sophie passed away in 1902, ruby and diamond suite was part of her estate. In 1913, her husband Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg bequeathed it their son Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954).

Köchert Ruby and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 90,000 – 130,000 CHF

From the Collection of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg

A Köchert Ruby and Diamond Brooch from the collection of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg, circa 1893, designed as a bow set with cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds, supporting a naturalistic spray of wild roses, the stamen and rose-buds set with cushion-shaped and oval rubies, the petals and leaves enhanced with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, bow and flowerheads detachable.

This brooch corresponds to the wedding gift which Archduke Franz Salvator of Austria-Tuscany (1866-1939) purchased at Köchert for his cousin Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria when she married Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg in 1893. The fittings provided with the ruby and diamond necklace (lot 1072) can also be used to wear the bow-shaped motif and flowerheads as smaller brooches, both jewels were intended to form a suite.

When Archduchess Margarete Sophie passed away in 1902, ruby and diamond suite was part of her estate. In 1913, her husband Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg bequeathed it their son Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954).

Diamond Bandeau Tiara

Estimate: 11,000 – 16,000 CHF

From the collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans, Princess of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha-Kohary

A Diamond Bandeau Tiara, circa 1840, the curved base supporting a slightly graduated row of lozenges alternating with bars, set throughout with cushion-shaped diamonds, from the collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans, Princess of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha-Kohary,

Princess Clémentine of Orléans owned a ruby and diamond parure incorporating the same lozenge motif as featured in this bandeau. This similarity, as well as the curvature of the base typical for French tiaras produced during the 1820s-1840s, makes an attribution to the collection of Clémentine of Orléans highly likely.

Diamond Rivière Necklace

Estimate: 270,000 – 450,000 CHF

From the collection of Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg

An important Diamond Rivière Necklace, from the late 19th century, which belonged to Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968), likely she inherited it from her mother Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany (1844–1899).

Princess Nina of Greece

Diamond Rivière Necklace

Estimate: 270,000 – 450,000 CHF

From the collection of Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg 

A Köchert Diamond Rivière Necklace which was given by Emperor Franz Joseph I to Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany on the occasion of her marriage to Robert, Duke of Württemberg in 1900.

This diamond rivière necklace corresponds to the rivière purchased by Emperor Franz Joseph at Köchert in October 1900 as a wedding present for Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany (1878-1968) on the occasion of her marriage to Robert, Duke of Württemberg (1873-1947). At the time the necklace contained thirty-eight collets so presumably one has been added at a later date.

Monday, October, the 29th, 1900

A wedding at the imperial court

The wedding was to take place at noon in the Hofburg Chapel, but the ceremonies had begun several days before. On Friday afternoon, two special trains had arrived in Vienna. The first one came from Stuttgart and carried the official representative of His Majesty King Wilhelm II of Württemberg: his cousin from Silesia, Duke Nicholas of Württemberg. The second one, even more prestigious, came from the Gödollo imperial station, near Budapest. It was the personal train of his Majesty Emperor Franz Joseph. The emperor had come especially to attend the wedding of his cousin: Maria Immaculata Rainera of Austria-Tuscany.

   Certainly the archduchess was the youngest daughter of a younger prince member of a minor branch of the Imperial House. But she was an orphan. Her father, Archduke Carl Salvatore had died in 1892. Her mother, Princess Maria Immacolata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, had died in January 1899. Since that last death, Rainera, as she was called, had lived with her godfather and guardian: Archduke Rainier, the richest and most respected man in the imperial family. He was the only member of the imperial family who was allowed to present himself in front of the emperor at any time without an audience.

   For nearly a week, the young Archduchess’s “Trousseau” had been on display in three salons of Archduke Rainier’s palace. The Wiener Salon Blatt in its edition of Sunday October 28 gives a very accurate description of the jewels. They were exhibited in two glass showcases. Place of honor had been given to the emperor’s gift: A rivière of 38 diamonds acquired by his majesty from the court jeweler, Köchert. Then came a tiara set with rubies and diamonds. It was the gift of Archduke Rainier and his wife and it was also from Köchert. Several pieces of jewelry, also signed Köchert, came from the inheritance of the young bride’s mother: a necklace of five rows of pearls (lot 1081), a bracelet of pearls, rubies and diamonds (lot 1078) and a tiara of pearls and of diamonds (Lot 1083). The groom, Duke Robert of Württemberg had also offered a rivière of diamonds to his future wife.

   On Saturday October 27 the official court ceremonies began. At noon, the young archduchess took the oath of renunciation of her rights to the hereditary possessions of the Habsburgs. This was the tradition for an alliance with a foreign prince. In the evening, the Emperor gave a family dinner at the Hofburg. On Sunday evening, in the Redoutensaal of the Imperial Palace, 700 guests were invited to a gala dinner followed by a concert. The menu in French began with a Chambord soup and ended with cherry ice cream. The concert alternated works by Léo Delibes, Tchaikovsky, Brahms and Grieg.

Then, finally, on Monday the 29th at 12, the wedding ceremony started and Her Imperial and Royal Highness Archduchess Maria Immaculata Rainera of Austria-Tuscany became her Royal Highness, Duchess Robert of Württemberg. Duke Robert would die in 1947, but Maria Immaculata Rainera would live until the very respectable age of 90, in 1968. Many Jewels from her Trousseau are presented in this catalogue.

Vincent Meylan

Pearl and Diamond Devant-de-Corsage

Estimate: 270,000 – 450,000 CHF

From the collection of Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg

An exceptional and highly important Pearl and Diamond Devant-de-Corsage from the collection of Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg, circa 1865, designed as a floral wreath set throughout with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, the central flowerhead set with a drop-shaped natural pearl supporting three detachable drop-shaped pearl pendants capped by diamond-set surmounts, the stamen of each remaining flowerhead set with a button-shaped natural pearl, each flowerhead detachable, fitting for wearing the central flowerhead and three pendants as a brooch, two small diamonds deficient, fitted case stamped Emil Biedermann. Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) offered this devant de corsage as a wedding gift to his bride Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927) on the occasion of their marriage in 1865, later left to their daughter-in-law, Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968)

Emil Biedermann (1830-1900) was a renowned Viennese jeweller and Köchert’s main competitor during the mid-nineteenth century.

Emil Biedermann ran a business founded by his grandfather Michael Lazar Biedermann (1769-1843). Michael Lazar was born in Pressburg (Bratislava) and apprenticed with an engraver in Vienna. In 1792, he adopted the surname Biedermann. By 1800, he had established his own jewellery store in Vienna and later branched out into textile manufacturing and banking.

His sons Joseph and Anton Biedermann took over the running of the jewellery business.

After the revolution of 1848, a young Emperor Franz Joseph jointly named Biedermann and Köchert crown jewellers, a position Biedermann would hold for the following twenty years. Michael Lazar Biedermann’s daughter Regine married her first cousin Joseph Biedermann and they were the parents of Emil Biedermann who would lead the company through its most successful period during the mid-nineteenth century. Biedermann ceased activity in the early 1890s.

For decades Biedermann received important commissions from the Imperial family amongst which this elaborate devant de corsage undoubtedly stands out as one of his most ambitious creations.

Pearl and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 270,000 – 450,000 CHF

From the collection of Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg

A superb natural Pearl and Diamond Brooch, circa 1865, set with a slightly baroque button-shaped natural pearl within a border of cushion-shaped diamonds, supporting a detachable pendant set with a slightly baroque drop-shaped natural pearl.

This natural pearl brooch was a wedding present from Alexander, Duke of Württemberg (1804-1881) to Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927) on the occasion of her marriage to his son Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) in 1865. Later it was bequeathed to the couple’s daughter-in-law Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968).

Emerald and Diamond Pendant

Estimate: 5,500 – 9,000 CHF

From the Collection of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg 

An Emerald and Diamond Pendant, attributed to Köchert, 1890s, designed as a Latin cross collet-set with cabochon emeralds, enhanced with cushion-shaped diamonds, the loop set with cushion-shaped diamonds.

This pendant was part of the estate of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg (1870-1902). It was bequeathed by her husband Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg (1865-1939) to their daughter Margarete Maria, Duchess of Württemberg (1902-1945) in 1913.

Abbess of the Imperial and Royal Theresian Stift for Noble Ladies from 1886 to 1893. This was a secular semi-monastic order founded by Empress Maria Theresa at Palais Rosenberg within the confines of Prague Castle in 1755. In 1918, it was abolished following the end of the Habsburg monarchy. Its aim was to support impoverished noble women. They were not obliged to take religious vows and were at liberty to leave the order to marry. This lifestyle of a secular canonesses goes back to medieval times where it was a way for aristocratic women to live a retired, contemplative life without committing to religious vows.

The Princess-Abbess leading the Imperial and Royal Theresian Stift for Noble Ladies was always an unmarried Austrian Archduchess appointed by the Emperor. Over time it became a prestigious honorary function bestowed on high-ranking Archduchesses in their youth prior to making an important marriage alliance. For instance, Archduchesses Maria Theresa (1816-1867) and Maria Christina (1858-1929), the future Queens of Naples and Spain, held the function of Princess-Abbess for a short duration in their teenage years.

The installation of the Princess-Abbess was celebrated with a lavish religious ceremony during which the newly appointed Abbess wore a black gown, a closed crown and the Order of the Starry Cross while carrying a large golden staff. Several holders of the position, including Archduchess Margarete Sophie, were portrayed wearing this ceremonial costume.

Köchert Diamond Star Brooch

Estimate 16,000 – 22,000 CHF

From the Collection of Wilhelm, Duke of Württemberg

A Köchert Highly important and historical Diamond Brooch, circa 1887, designed as a star set with pear- and cushion-shaped diamonds, unsigned, central element and brooch fitting detachable, fitted case stamped Köchert.

The diamonds composing this star-shaped brooch by Köchert were originally set in the upper part of the eagle of the Order of St. Andrew, the most elevated order of knighthood within the Russian Empire. Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1788-1857) was awarded this distinction for serving in the Russian army as General of the Infantry at the time of the Napoleonic Wars.

Eugen, Duke of Württemberg, was a son of Eugen Friedrich Heinrich, Duke of Württemberg (1758-1822) and Luise zu Stolberg-Gedern (1764-1834). This made him the nephew of the first King of Württemberg, Frederick I (1754-1816) as well as of Empress Maria-Feodorovna of Russia, born Sophie Dorothea of Württemberg (1759-1828). As a younger son of a reigning Duke of Württemberg, Eugen Friedrich Heinrich chose a military career serving in the Prussian army. He took up residence in the Prussian province of Upper Silesia, then Prussia, now located in Poland. Today, he is still well remembered as a patron of the composer Carl Maria von Weber.

Just like his father Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1788-1857), opted for a life in the army. His family ties to the Russian Empress made a career in the Russian Imperial military a natural choice. He swiftly rose to the rank of General of the Infantry. In 1812, at the height of Napoleon’s invasion of Russia, he notably fought at the Battle or Borodino.

Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1788-1857) left his badge of the Order of St. Andrew to his eldest son Wilhelm, Duke of Württemberg (1828-1896) as a testamentary gift. Wilhelm had the current star-shaped brooch created by Köchert of Vienna in 1887 re-using diamonds originally set in the order.

Just like his father and grandfather before him, Wilhelm served in a foreign army. His career in the Austrian army was particularly brilliant, participating in the battles of Magenta (1859) and Königgrätz (1866). In 1889, Wilhelm became commanding General based in Lemberg, Galicia, today Ukraine, but then part of the sprawling Austro-Hungarian Empire. Towards the end of his life he took a keener interest in domestic and military issues in his native Württemberg.

Wilhelm, who remained childless and unmarried, repeated several times that he wished his unmarried sister Alexandrine Mathilde, Duchess of Württemberg (1829-1913) to have the star-shaped diamond brooch by Köchert. She refused to accept on several occasions believing that he might still marry and have descendants. In 1891, she noted down that she accepted the item temporarily. During Wilhelm’s final illness in July 1896 he repeated his wish that she should consider the brooch as a gift to her and thus her full property, rather than as a temporary loan.

In her last will and testament dated 25 October 1909, Duchess Alexandrine Mathilde of Württemberg testated this brooch to Queen Charlotte of Württemberg (1864-1946) who in turn gifted the brooch to Princess Nadezhda of Bulgaria, Duchess of Württemberg (1899-1958).

Diamond Star Brooches

Estimate: 9,000 – 14,000 CHF

From the Collection of Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg 

Attractive suite of Diamond Star Brooches, Wilhelm Haarstrick, circa 1900, comprising three brooches/pendants each designed as a star set throughout with circular-cut diamonds, brooch fittings detachable, fitting for wear as a tiara, hairpin fittings, two fitted cases stamped Wilhelm Haarstrick.

Grand Duke Ferdinand IV of Tuscany (1835-1908) and his spouse Princess Alice of Bourbon-Parma, Grand Duchess of Tuscany (1849-1935) gifted this suite of diamond stars to their niece Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany (1878-1968) as a wedding gift on the occasion of her marriage to Robert, Duke of Württemberg (1873-1947) celebrated on 29 October 1900.

The jeweller Wilhelm Haarstrick was employed by the renowned Viennese jeweller Köchert between 1864 and 1896 before working independently. Wilhelm Haarstrick was specialized in renaissance revival designs as well as elaborate diamond parures. These star-shaped diamond ornaments in particular recall the famous suite of diamond stars which Köchert created for Empress Elisabeth of Austria in the 1860s and which she was immortalised wearing in her full-sized 1865 portrait by Franz Xavier Winterhalter. This portrait remains the quintessential image anchoring the enduring romantic myth of ‘Sissi’.

Pearl and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 70,000 – 120,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany 

A fine natural Pearl and Diamond Brooch, late 19th century, the button-shaped natural pearl measuring 14.54 – 14.67 x 12.07mm, within a border of stylised floral design set with cushion-shaped diamonds, fitted case.

This brooch was originally worn by Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany (1844–1899) on a wide gold bangle. When it was inherited by her daughter Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968) the setting was changed to its present form.

Pearl and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 90,000 – 180,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Maria Immacolata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany

Pearl and Diamond Brooch, attributed to Moritz Hübner, late 19th century, designed as a flowerhead set with a button-shaped natural pearl, the petals enhanced with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, supporting a detachable pendant set with a drop-shaped natural pearl, capped by a surmount of foliate design set with rose diamonds, unsigned, one small diamond deficient, fitted case stamped Moritz Hübner. This natural pearl and diamond brooch belonged to Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany (1844–1899) and was inherited by her daughter Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968).

Pearl and Diamond Necklace

Estimate: 140,000 – 220,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany

A superb natural Pearl and Diamond Necklace, attributed to Köchert, late 19th century, which is composed of five slightly graduated rows of oval, button- and barrel-shaped natural pearls measuring approximately from 8.20 to 5.35mm, the clasp of foliate design collet-set with a cushion-shaped diamond, enhanced with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, shortest length approximately 350mm, each row detachable, fitted case stamped Köchert. This necklace belonged to Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany (1844-1899). It was inherited by her daughter Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968).

Pearl and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 7,000 – 11,000 CHF

From the Collection of Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg 

A Natural Pearl and Diamond Brooch, attributed to Köchert, circa 1865, of doorknocker and meander design, set with slightly baroque oval to button-shaped natural pearls set throughout with cushion-shaped diamonds, enhanced with rose diamonds, unsigned, central cluster detachable, one small diamond deficient. Emperor Ferdinand I of Austria (1793-1875) gifted this brooch as a wedding present to Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927) in 1865. In 1924, it was presented as a wedding gift to Princess Nadezhda of Bulgaria (1899-1958) when she married Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954).

Pearl and Diamond Pendants

Estimate: 140,000 – 220,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Hildegard of Bavaria, Duchess of Teschen, Archduchess of Austria-Teschen

A fine suite of natural Pearl and Diamond Pendants, circa 1864, ch set with a slightly baroque drop-shaped natural pearl, capped with rose diamonds, fitted case stamped Emil Biedermann. Princess Hildegard of Bavaria, Duchess of Teschen (1825-1864) exchanged older jewellery pieces for this set of natural pearl and diamonds pendants. Shortly before she passed away, she gifted them to her daughter Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927) in view of her wedding to Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917). It then passed to Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968).

Ruby and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 2,800 – 4,500 CHF

From the Collection of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg 

A Ruby and Diamond Brooch, 1890s and later, designed as a star set with a cushion-shaped ruby, pavé-set with cushion-shaped diamonds, brooch fitting detachable, original fitted case stamped V. Mayer Söhne.

This ruby and diamond star-shaped brooch was originally set on a gold bangle accompanied by a fitted case from the Viennese jeweller V. Mayer S. Söhne. The original fitted case is offered together with this lot. The bangle was part of the estate of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg (1870-1902). Upon her death it was bequeathed by her husband Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg (1865-1939) to their son Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954). The latter sold the gold bangle in 1923 and retained the ruby and diamond star converted as a brooch.

Köchert Diamond Clasp

Estimate: 18,000 – 35,000 CHF

From the Collection Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg

A Köchert Diamond Clasp, circa 1895, designed as an infinity knot, set with cushion-shaped diamonds, enhanced with rose diamonds. This diamond clasp was bequeathed in 1913 by Albrecht, Duke of Württemberg (1865-1939) from the estate of his wife, Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg (1870-1902), to their son Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954).

Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 18,000 – 28,000 CHF

From the Collection of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg

A Diamond Brooch, circa 1900, designed as a stylised lily on a stem, set with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, one petal centering on a circular-cut diamond weighing 3.74 carats, Austrian maker’s and assay marks for gold, flowerhead and stem detachable.

This brooch was part of the estate of Margarete Maria, Duchess of Württemberg (1902-1945). She died at the end of World War II, hit by a stray bullet shot by a French soldier. In all likelihood, she had inherited this brooch from her mother Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg (1870-1902).

Pearl and Gold Bangles

Estimate: 2,800 – 3,500 CHF

From the Collection of Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg

A set of natural Pearl and Gold Bangles, early 20th century, comprising three polished gold bangles, two set with a round to roundish grey and a white natural pearl measuring approximately 8.50 – 8.70mm and 7.90 – 8.10mm respectively, the third set with a light brown non-nacreous pearl measuring approximatively 8.30 – 8.40mm.

These bangles were part of the estate of Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg (1845-1927). Originally the three pearls were set on buttons belonging to her husband Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917). She later had them reset on these bangles and bequeathed them to one of her great-grandchildren.

Köchert Diamond Necklace

Estimate: 16,000 – 22,000 CHF

From the collection of Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria

A Köchert Diamond Necklace, the front composed of clusters set with circular-cut diamonds, alternating with links, set throughout with cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds, detachable for wear as a bracelet, circa 1890s. The Necklace comes from the collection of Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria, and was the worn by Princess Nadezhda of Bulgaria on the occasion of her marriage to Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg in 1924.

Ruby and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 2,800 – 4,500 CHF

From the collection of Princess Nadezhda of Bulgaria, Duchess of Württemberg

A Ruby and Diamond Brooch, designed as a fleur-de-lys set with a hexagonal and two triangular fancy-cut diamonds, outlined by calibré-cut rubies, numbered, brooch fitting detachable, circa 1915. This brooch was likely given by Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria as a sixteenth birthday present to his youngest daughter Princess Nadezhda of Bulgaria in 1915. She is depicted wearing it in a portrait dated 1915. The fleur-de-lys motif is a reference to the family of her mother, Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma as well as to the family of her paternal grandmother, Princess Clémentine of Orléans.

Gem set and Diamond Comb

Estimate: 28,000 – 45,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria

A Gem set and Diamond Comb, from the 1890s, designed as a gold openwork crown, decorated with clusters composed of circular-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, cushion-shaped and oval rubies as well as step-cut and cushion-shaped emeralds within cushion-shaped diamond borders, enhanced with seed pearls, from the Collection of Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899).

This comb was part of the estate of Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899) and was bequeathed to her youngest daughter, Princess Nadezhda of Bulgaria (1899-1958). The note attesting to the provenance has two sides. One side explains that the stones were heirlooms from the Neapolitan dynasty of Bourbon-Two Sicilies probably via Princess Marie Louise’s mother Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma (1849-1882) and were reset in this comb. The other side explains how the City of Tarnovo, ancient capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire, gifted this comb in Byzantine style to Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma as a wedding gift in 1893. Every Bulgarian Crown Prince is styled as Prince of Tarnovo.

Sapphire, Ruby and Diamond Necklace

Estimate: 60,000 – 90,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma

A Sapphire, Ruby and Diamond Necklace, late 19th century, designed as a slightly graduated fringe, each pendant supported from a gold loop-in-loop chain, collet-set with oval, cushion- and pear-shaped sapphires and rubies, enhanced with collet-set cushion-shaped diamonds,

This necklace was made for Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma (1849-1882) using stones which were heirlooms from her Neapolitan family. Her daughter Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899) in turn inherited the necklace and left it to her daughter Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985).

Ruby and Diamond Brooch and a Diamond Clasp

Estimate: 1,000 – 1,500 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria 

A Ruby and Diamond Brooch and a Diamond Clasp, mid-19th century, comprising: a brooch representing the initials L and B set with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds and cushion-shaped rubies respectively, pin deficient; and a clasp set with rose diamonds.

The initials L and B refer to Louise of Artois, Duchess of Parma (1819-1864). She was a granddaughter of the last legitimist Bourbon King of France, Charles X and married Charles III of Bourbon-Parma, Duke of Parma (1823-1854). The brooch was inherited by her granddaughter Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899), it was part of her estate when she passed away.

Sapphire, Diamond and Gold Bangle

Estimate: 800 – 1,200 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria 

A Sapphire, Diamond and Gold Bangle, 1890s, the bifurcated bangle decorated with two interlocking horseshoes set with cushion-shaped sapphires and circular-cut diamonds, enhanced with rose diamonds. This bangle was given by Robert I, Duke of Parma (1848-1907) to his daughter Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899). Later it was inherited by her daughter Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985).

Gem-Set and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 800 – 1,400 CHF

From the collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans, Princess of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha-Kohary

A Gem-Set and Diamond Brooch, circa 1890s, from the Collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans, Princess of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha-Kohary, designed as the cipher of Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria set with circular-cut and rose diamonds, enhanced with a cabochon emerald and red enamel, supporting three seed pearl pendants.

Spinel and Diamond Pendent Necklace

Estimate: 16,000 – 22,000 CHF

From the collection of Princess Eleonore of Reuss-Köstritz, Tsarina of Bulgaria 

A Spinel and Diamond Pendent Necklace, of lavalière design, each pendant collet-set with a pear-shaped spinel within a frame of circular-cut diamonds surmounted by a bow, supported from a bow-shaped motif set with circular-cut diamonds, on a cable-link chain enhanced at the front with single-cut diamonds, comes from the collection of Princess Eleonore of Reuss-Köstritz, Tsarina of Bulgaria.

Sapphire and Diamond Pendent Necklace

Estimate: 11,000 – 16,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Eleonore of Reuss-Köstritz, Tsarina of Bulgaria

A Sapphire and Diamond Pendent Necklace, circa 1910, collet-set with a sugarloaf cabochon sapphire within a frame of circular-cut diamonds, supported from a bow-shaped surmount millegrain-set with circular-cut diamonds, on a cable-link chain,

This pendant belonged to Princess Eleonore of Reuss-Köstritz, Tsarina of Bulgaria (1860-1917), the second wife of Ferdinand I of Bulgaria. She left the jewel to her step-daughter Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985). It can be recognised on several portrait photos of Eleonore of Reuss-Köstritz.

Chrysoprase, Ruby and Diamond Pectoral Cross

Estimate: 7,000 – 13,000 CHF

From the Collection of Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria

A Chrysoprase, Ruby and Diamond Pectoral Cross, circa 1900, designed as a Latin cross, collet-set with chrysoprase framed by gold scrollwork enhanced with variously cut rubies, decorated with silver rays, terminals of foliate design and a bow set with rose diamonds, from a chain composed of Greek crosses alternating with bar links.

This pectoral cross belonged to Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria (1861-1948). In his will he bequeathed it to Monseigneur Michael Buzalka, Auxiliary Bishop of Bratislava and Trnava (1885-1961). When Ferdinand I passed away in 1948, the Bishop was imprisoned by the communist regime of Czechoslovakia. Therefore the bequest could not be carried out. The Bishop passed away in prison in the early 1960s. Ferdinand I’s daughter Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985) subsequently inherited the pectoral cross. For years, she tried to re-establish contact with the imprisoned Bishop and concluded that he passed away in either 1963 or 1964 as his name was no longer mentioned in the Annunzio Pontifico from that time onwards.

Order of the Golden Fleece

Estimate: 36,000 – 55,000 CHF

From the collection of Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria

A sapphire, ruby and diamond neck badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece, from the early 20th century, comes from the collection of Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria, who was granted knighthood of the Austrian Order of the Golden Fleece in 1911.

Badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece

Estimate 18,000 – 28,000 CHF

From the Collection of Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria

A Zircon, sapphire and diamond neck badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece, early 20th century, the gold surmount of stylised B design supporting the fire-steel section collet-set with an oval yellow zircon, the flames decorated with circular-cut diamonds and hexagonal step-cut sapphires, supporting the lamb skin of textured gold, the suspension hoop enhanced with a circular-cut diamond. Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria (1861-1948) became a knight of the Austrian Order of the Golden Fleece in 1911.

Emerald and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 1,800 – 3,500 CHF

From the collection of Tsar Boris III of Bulgaria

An Emerald and Diamond Brooch, designed as a crescent moon set with cushion-shaped and circular emeralds and circular-cut diamonds, from the 1890s, was given by Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria to his eldest son, Tsar Boris III of Bulgaria, when he was still a child. Tsar Boris III in turn gifted it to one of his infant nephews in the 1920s.

Pink Topaz, Seed Pearl and Diamond Necklace

Estimate: 7,000 – 11,000 CHF

Originating from Queen Margherita of Italy

A Pink Topaz, Seed Pearl and Diamond Necklace, of festoon design, composed of three rows of seed pearls, interspersed with graduated clusters set with oval and cushion-shaped pink topazes in cushion-shaped diamond borders, The pink topaz and diamond necklace and a bracelet, originally belonged to Queen Margherita of Italy who left them to her granddaughter Queen Giovanna of Bulgaria. Queen Giovanna in turn gifted them to her sister-in-law, Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria.

Though she had some difficulty adjusting to her new role of lesser importance, these gifts show that Princess Eudoxia entertained a warm relationship with her sister-in-law Princess Giovanna of Savoy, Tsarina of Bulgaria.

Diamond and Emerald Brooch

Estimate: 800 – 1,200 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria

A Diamond and Emerald Brooch, circa 1928, designed as an automobile set with rose diamonds, embellished with calibré-cut emeralds. This diamond and emerald brooch was gifted by Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985) to one of her nephews in 1928.

Sapphire and Diamond Brooch/Pendant

Estimate: 9,000 – 14,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria

A Sapphire and Diamond Brooch/Pendant, circa 1900, designed as a stylised openwork flower, the stamen set with a cushion-shaped sapphire within a double border of rose diamonds, the petals set with oval sapphires, enhanced with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, supporting a detachable pendant set with a kite-shaped sapphire and a buff-top oval sapphire. This brooch/pendant was given by Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria (1861-1948) to his daughter Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1899-1958) on the occasion of her second birthday in 1900.

Sapphire and Diamond Pendent Necklace

Estimate: 11,000 – 16,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria

A Sapphire and Diamond Pendent Necklace, circa 1916, swing-set with a cushion-shaped sapphire within an openwork frame millegrain-set with circular-cut diamonds, supported from a row of geometric links set with calibré-cut sapphires and circular-cut diamonds, on a cable-link chain. This pendent necklace was given by Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria (1861-1948) to his daughter Eudoxia of Bulgaria in 1916, presumably on the occasion of her eighteenth birthday.

Ruby and Diamond Earrings

Estimate: 1,800 – 3,500 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria

A pair of Ruby and Diamond pendent Earrings, circa 1910, each swing-set with a pear-shaped cabochon ruby within a frame of millegrain-set rose diamonds, supported by a line of rose diamonds surmounted by a circular-cut diamond, from the Collection of Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria.

Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 36,000 – 65,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria

A Diamond Brooch, late 19th century, designed as a floral spray, the central flowerhead set with a cushion-shaped diamond within a border of rose diamonds, set throughout with cushion-shaped diamonds, one small diamond deficient. Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria received this brooch as a gift from her father Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria (1861-1948).

Diamond Tiara

Estimate: 28,000 – 45,000 CHF

A Diamond Tiara, designed as a double spray of foliate design set throughout with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, accented with pear-shaped diamonds, centering on a lozenge-shaped motif set with cushion-shaped diamonds, central motif detachable for wear as a brooch, sprays detachable for wear as four brooches.

Coral Jewels

Estimate: 1,800 – 3,500 CHF

A Collection of Coral Jewels, late 19th century and later, comprising: a tiara composed of coral branches, inner circumference approximately 170mm; a comb; a necklace, length approximately 420mm; a bracelet, length approximately 220mm; a bangle, inner circumference approximately 65mm; a brooch; and four pendants.

Garnet Parure

Estimate: 1,800 – 3,500 CHF

A Garnet Parure, mid-19th century, and a group of garnet jewels, comprising: a parure set with cabochon garnets composed of a tiara designed as three fan-shaped motifs, inner circumference approximately 260mm, three motifs detachable, a necklace, length approximately 350mm, pendants detachable, and three studs, accompanied by a fitted case; and a group of garnet jewels composed of four pendants, a stud and a clasp, unillustrated.